What sorta glue/resin do you use on longboard builds?
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- RichardMaretti
- RichardMaretti
hey man i used gorilla glue
hey man i used gorilla glue to make mine you should ask jestah hes the man at making boards i saw some of them online there sweet
Gorilla Glue
Easily available but messy to use. Do not wear you Sunday suit when gluing. Not everyones favourite but used right it works very very well.
www.boarderlines.co.nz
www.bombardierlongboards.co.nz
yea man dont listen to me my
yea man dont listen to me my board was a bit of a back yard experment that turned out alright. i think i used the polyurathane based one
gorilla glue it is
any tips on applying?
Christchurch Local
i just squirted it on and
i just squirted it on and spread it out as even as possible with a putty spatchular
all glue is good!!!
But not all ways the best choice for the job at hand....
Epoxy has very good bonding power BUT is very brittle. Adding fibres, milled fibres or glue blends help for use between wood plies as well as giving you a lighter glue line. The glue has to be mixed, thickened, spread evenly and the mould completely compressed in 20-40mins (this time is refereed as pot life on the packaging)
a few notes about epoxy
epoxy can NOT be made to cure faster or slower by using more/less hardener.
Faster or slower cures are achieved by using different hardeners
Hot ambient temps = faster cure
Low temps/damp = FAIL (or VERY slow cure and low strength)
Measuring by weight will give you the best results as getting the ratio right will give you the best glue strength
Depending on what you use to thicken the epoxy it will still have fairly poor strength around areas where there is thick/deep glue lines
Epoxy is expensive and toxic so do not use it with out a organic vapour rated respirator!!!
I use epoxy cause I need to cure fibre glass / carbon as part of the laminate and adding a second glue systems for the core to my lay up will be too slow. That is why I use epoxy.
If I was not using fibre in the layup and gluing timber sheets together I would choose gorilla glue as it expands and is a little more flexible than epoxy. Billy is the man at this style of building and his boards take a LOT of abuse so he must know what hes doing!
Oh and don't forget trusty PVA! If you find some scrap 4-6mm ply, a box of screws and some PVA glue you can make a sweet carver for less than a night at the movies!
The best glue is the one that suits the needs of your build... what are you looking for in a glue?
no offence
but from what ive read the expanding is what you dont want. expanding=delam+crack=shit
this doesnt mean gorilla glue is bad, you just have to use it properly so you dont get any foaming(expanding)
epoxy is perfect for stiff boards. an is the only glue that will hold against delaming etc when there are gaps or cracks in the glue. epoxy has the highest strength.
i use west systems epoxy with a fast hardener and wood filler. the glue is stronger than the wood.
I sort of agree
You must have everything organised before you start. Once you've spread the Gorilla Glue you can't afford to be pffaffing about with the press. The directions say that the working time is 30 minutes. In that time the glue will start to expand and if you're not efficient with your time that expansion cannot be undone by trying to compress it out.
However if you are using a poor grade of ply that has a few defects in it then that expansion can be a good thing (up to a point) as it will fill any imperfections.
Once finished (cut out and sanded) the glue line should be pretty much invisible. If it is easily visible then you will eventually get a crack in the glue and eventually the board will start to delam - especially if that visible glue line is in the middle of the deck where most of the flex it.
So, before applying any glue to the ply:
Get you tools out and organised
Organise your press so you know where everything is
Once you have applied the glue do not be distracted by the phone/wife/husband/significant other/friends who come to ask you out for a skate. Stay focussed until you've tightened that sucker down.
And just a note on how much you need. Once the press is tightened up you should see some, but not heaps, of excess glue oozing out the sides.
Billy
no offence taken but....
"but from what ive read the expanding is what you dont want. expanding=delam+crack=shit"
a void is a bad thing in any laminate that will need to be "bridged" or you become at risk to shear starting around this void. Gorilla gluing is an art but the fact that if you get it pressed together well it forms a bond stronger than the wood itself (I think, Billy what's your experience?). At this point all board become around the same as it will be the timber that rips apart and the glues next point of fail will be around any "pools" of glue stuck between plies or in voids in the ply itself.
So now if we look at epoxy as a glue with NO additives you will find that it is amazingly brittle and will fail with very little bending.... NOT GOOD FOR BOARDS! If your not willing to also buy and add a epoxy glue mix then expect poor glue performance.
I use a mix of a few different products to make my epoxy glue mix when i need it BUT have found the left overs to still be very brittle.
Epoxy bonds very well but like all glues it has some down sites:
Expensive, glue blend product also needed, brittle, toxic and the ability to exotherm (heat up due to the chemical reaction and possibly catch fire all while giving of a even more toxic smoke....)
as I have said before, many glue systems out there but pick the best for your press, build and equipment. Epoxy is not the best glue, just one of the options!
Stronger than wood?
Pretty much. If it breaks it never breaks along the glue line that's for sure. And when I say it fills voids I mean small voids.
Billy
www.boarderlines.co.nz
www.bombardierlongboards.co.nz
ok so i've got gorrilla glue
i was going to pick the 3mm ply im using today but the ground threw a complete tantrum. how should i prep the ply (when i get it) before gluing sand it smooth or leave it rough?
Christchurch Local
I like to...
I like to hit it with some 40-80 grit sand paper then remove any dust with either a tack cloth or blowing with compressed air.
I like to drill holes at 50mm centres across the board to assure there are no air pockets but this IS overkill... I go to the effort as I use a vacuum press and can gain a slightly lighter board if I can draw resin from the other side of the core.
Thanks everyone
brilliant advice i feel like i know wat im doing now. can't wait to get started : )
Christchurch Local
stoked for you and...
cant wait to see the results!
best of luck and dont forget to try a dry run before you try with glue.
my current board build
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=lf#!/photo.php?pid=1577415&id=1055262577&ref=fbx_album
using epoxy an gaboon
sick WLA (Wellington
sick
WLA (Wellington Longboard Association)
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=77455213537
ok
so jig works fine i made proto 1 which was too flexy for dh, then proto 2 which had air pockets and snapped, proto 3 is just round the corner any more tips for gluing to get rid of air pockets/defects before i start?
Christchurch Local
Press
You need even pressure over the entire surface. Do you have a pic of the press?
www.boarderlines.co.nz
www.bombardierlongboards.co.nz
jig
thats the jig hopefully the pic shows up
Christchurch Local
well sorta woked :S
Christchurch Local
Hey, Hang on there!
What about proto 1.5!
From bokee's jig, it has no flex (two 6mm plys of Fijian maple, Marine grade)
It lost the tail as I rode up a curb, f**king horizontal force just teared it off.
Ended up improvising alil.
nice!
the pointy end is scary wouldn't want to crash into someone with that haha
Hence it being the back.
But you sure know when people have seen it- WHOOaaaa!
the result
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000090926279#!/photo.php?pid=535790&fbid=160309977315365&id=100000090926279
Cheers for the advise guys it helped me heaps
Christchurch Local